West Highland Way

West Highland Way

Mike bought a package that organised his weeks walking trip, booking accommodation in hotels and transporting luggage. However it is possible to walk using a light backpack and staying in a mixture of hostels and other accommodation.   The hostels below are designed for walkers and are set along the West Highland Way.

BALMAHA BUNKHOUSE / HOSTEL: On the West Highland Way at Balmaha

STRATHFILLAN WIGWAMS : On the West Highland Way at Auchtertyre, 2 miles south of Tyndrum

BY THE WAY HOSTEL AND CAMPSITE : On the West Highland Way at Tyndrum

KINGS HOUSE BUNKHOUSE :  Right on the West Highland Way at Kings House Hotel in Glencoe

GLENCOE INDEPENDENT HOSTEL :  Glencoe, 20 mins drive from West Highland Way

SMIDDY BUNKHOUSE :  Corpach, 3km from WHW

COORIE DOON:  Banavie, Fort William

BANK STREET LODGEFORT WILLIAM BACKPACKERS : Fort William, at the end of the West Highland Way

You can see the location of other hostels in this area on our Scottish Map.

Here is Mike’s story

Eight of us, aged 66 to 72 decided this year’s Scottish adventure would be the West Highland Way.

Day 1 West Highland Way Milngavie to Drymen, 12 miles

We started at the official West Highland Way  obelisk in Milngavie. The first part of the walk was on old railway line, cleverly converted. We went off track a short distance to visit the ruined Mugdock Castle.

West Highland Way Milngavie to Mugdock Castle
West Highland Way Milngavie to Mugdock Castle

In spite of the rain, heavy at times, we trudged on the 12 miles to Drymen along woodland paths, more railway and finally a few miles on road, which can be hard walking.

Day  2 West Highland Way Drymen to Rowardennan, 15 miles

A better day, only showers. Woodland and moorland  for the first half with many a short up and down. We climbed Conic Hill, local beauty spot and magnet for short distance walkers, to get a great view of Loch Lomond below us. Tea and cakes in Balmaha where we walked past Balmaha Bunkhouse which provides accommodation for walkers. Then onward along the path beside the loch to Rowardennen where we spent the night. (A party of Danes could not understand our accents, most of us being from Tyneside !).

west highland way Loch Lomand from Conic Hill

Day 3 West Highland Way  Rowardennen to Beinglas Farm, 13 miles.

For me this was the hardest day. The path was initially good to Inversnaid hotel. After that a narrow path close to the shore of Loch Lomond. It was very rocky in places, care being needed and some short scrambles too. Final section across fields to Beinglas where we stayed the night. We visited the ancient pub “The Drovers  Inn”, dating back to Rob Roy. It had not been decorated since he was there.

Day 4 West Highland Way Beinglas to Tyndrum, 14 miles

The first half, to Crianlarich was a mixture of moorland, woodland and muddy tracks. It rained a bit too. We went off the West Highland Way for tea at Criuanlarich railway station. The second half of the day took us through several miles of coniferous plantation, which can be boring but this one was not too bad.  Out of the forest we passed St Fillans abbey (ruined). The Lochan of the Sword where Robert the Bruce, according to myth, threw his sword after defeat in battle.  We also passed Strathfillan Wigwams  which provides accommodation for walkers.  Finally a footpath brought us to Tyndrum where we spent the night.  Tyndrum  is the location of the By the Way Hostel which provides accommodation and a campsite for walkers right by the West Highland Way.

West Highland Way The Way goes ever on

Day 5  West Highland Way Tyndrum to Inveroran Hotel, 10 miles

Getting deeper into the highlands the walk was getting more interesting. After 7 miles we stopped at the Bridge of Orchy hotel for tea and scones (honest).  Moving on over moorland we came in sight of the isolated Inveroran hotel, quite isolated (No wfi!!) but in a beautiful setting below the Black  Mount and close to Loch Tulla. It suited us, sitting in the sunshine enjoying a quiet pint and watching other walkers come down the hill to the hotel. (Dorothy Wordsworth, travelling with William, was not as impressed apparently).

West Highland Way Lunchtime Buchaile

Day  6 West Highland Way, Inveroran to Kings House, 10 miles

Sadly the day started with a slight thunderstorm and rain, which ensured the mountains were all but invisible. As morning progressed the cloud lifted and we walked on a good track built by Thomas Telford in 1803. We walked across part of Rannoch Moor, a desolate uninhabited land of bog and lochan. But the views were unbeatable, as we left the Black Mount the mountains of Glen Coe appeared in all there glory. A really magnificent area. We stayed at the Kingshouse Hotel close to the head of Glen Coe. In the evening a herd of deer, females with their young, came very close to the hotel.

Day 7 West Highland Way Kingshouse to Kinlochleven, 8 miles

A short walk parallel to the road that goes down Glen Coe before heading up “The Devil’s Staircase” a steep zig zag path that is also an old military road. It reaches 1789 feet, the highest point on the WHW and is another popular short walk, up to the shoulder and down again!   The view from the top was well worth the effort(which wasn’t too bad). A grand panorama of the Mamores to the north and looking back the mountains that line Glen Coe.It seemed a long walk down to Kinlochleven. In spite of the old aluminium smelter and hydro power station Kinlochleven is quite a pretty place. One of the old buildings has been converted to Britain’s ice climbing centre………..and a micro brewery.

West Highland Way Mamores from Devils Staircase
West Highland Way Mamores from Devils Staircase

Day 8  West Highland Way Kinlochleven to Fort William, 16 miles

After a short steep climb through woodland we reached another old /military road that contoured nearly all the way to Glen Nevis.  Ben Nevis appeared, initially covered in cloud but that slowly burned off. It was possible to see the steady stream of walkers plodding up the tourist route to the summit of  Ben Nevis. We walked down through woodland to Glen Nevis. Sadly, the last couple of miles of the WHW are on a road. We had to walk the length of the high street to get to the official finish and then, surprisingly, we went to the nearest pub to celebrate.

west highland way Day 6 and the end of the walk

Officially the walk is 96 miles, we clocked up a few extra.   One of the pleasures of the walk is the camaraderie. Not just between the eight of us. We often walked in pairs, sometimes alone. But everyday we met groups of people also doing the West Highland Way. Most of them were Europeans, some Americans, some Canadians. We always exchanged greetings and enquiries as to how was it going etc. Some people, mostly young, were doing the walk carrying full packs, tents sleeping bags etc. Ouch.  It was agreat experience, looking back I enjoyed every step in its own way and much to my surprise, I didn’t even get one blister.

 

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About Mike Emmett

Mike "the blogmeister" of our group of elderly walkers, aged 58 to 72. We walk every Friday, usually in the Cheviots or anywhere else in the north as we all live in or near Tyneside. gadgiewalks.blogspot.com