Whilst staying at Aite Cruinnichidh hostel, our intrepid blogger, Virginia, bagged 5 munros in 2 days. Read on to see how she did it.
Aite Cruinnichidh hostel. Perfectly positioned for munro-bagging
I recently stayed at the very well positioned Aite Cruinnichidh hostel in Roybridge, just a few miles north of Fort William but in a lovely quiet location. It suited me well as I had a couple of days booked with Christian from Walk Glencoe in Kintail and Laggan making this an excellent location; inexpensive and quiet.
Day 1 : Two Munros in Kintail
My first day’s walk in Kintail was the pair of Munros, The Saddle and Sgurr na Sgine. Unfortunately it was too windy for us to hike up the famous Forcan Ridge, but we still had a wonderful walk with a steep ascent and even steeper descent. The views were amazing into very remote back-country and this is a relatively short walk (12km 1300m) for the area which boasts upwards of 20 Munros, many of which can be bagged several at a time without being too exhausting. Christian is a knowledgeable and companionable guide.
In the evening I enjoyed chatting with some lads who were path repairing on Ben Nevis. They were in the hostel all week and it was great to have some company. They arrived back each evening with wet gear like me and we found the drying room a useful facility. The kitchen was very well equipped with a couple of cookers, fridges and sinks, as well as ample storage space and more herbs and spices than I have at home! There is also a very upmarket double en suite room with a bunk bed as well as a double bed that would be great for couples or families.
Day 2: Walking from Rannach ot Roybridge
On my second day the weather was damp and the cloud level low so I opted for a train trip from Roybridge to Rannoch Moor with the intention of walking the 17km back along the track (part of the Road to the Isles used for cattle driving) to another cafe at Corrour. This is the most accessible remote place in Scotland (in my experience) and it was a great day out. I got the 08:00 train from Roybridge and enjoyed breakfast in the Rannoch cafe before heading off along the easy track back to Corrour.
This walk can be done in either direction; I chose this way as I thought the descent above Loch Ossian would be more dramatic than the arrival at Rannoch. The flowers were lovely, lots of orchids and bog asphodel. The bird song was beautiful as it’s a lovely quiet area for moorland birds and I’m sure a birder would have been able to identify lots.
I enjoyed a stop at the atmospheric ruins of Corrour Lodge, the original hunting lodge. This has now relocated to the more accessible eastern end of Loch Ossian. I passed Peter’s Rock at the fork in the track. Peter Trowell was an ex-warden of Loch Ossian SYH who over-wintered alone at the hostel working on refurbishment. His body was found only when the Loch unfroze some weeks later – it is presumed he was working at the Loch side or on the old boat mooring and went through the ice and perished but the whole story will never be known. Note the inscription reads, “Died March 1979” – as the exact date can never be established.
“I have a friend a song and a glass
Gaily along life’s road I pass
Joyous and free out of doors for me
Over the hills in the morning. “
I then enjoyed the beautiful descent to picturesque Loch Ossian (even in the rain this is a lovely sight) looking to the remote Loch Ossian youth hostel here and then to the Corrour Station House cafe. I had some time before the train back to Roybridge at 15:20 so enjoyed some lunch and reading as by now the rain was heavy!
Back in Roybridge I decided on some retail therapy at Ellis Brigham in Fort Willliam, a short drive away. It also boasts an exceptional bookshop for outdoor enthusiasts as well as plenty of cafes and outdoor shops along with a cinema. Several pounds poorer I returned for dinner and chat before bed. Showers here are rudimentary but adequate.
Day 3: Three Munros, The Ardverekie Trio
My third and final day started very locally for me as was again joining Christian on a walk to collect the Ardverekie Trio of Munros accessed by a 5 km estate road to a beautiful Loch, Lochan na h’Erba. We met at the parking spot near Luiblea and the Spean River, and set off to the sandy beach at the end of the Loch.
Christian regaled us with the estate’s plans to flood the Loch and put in some major infrastructure with hydro plans from an upper Loch. These days we are facing some tough choices for our few remaining wild areas as we look at more sustainable energy solutions. The weather was wet and in very poor conditions we followed Christian up a steep slope avoiding the corrie to ascend the first Munro. I was pleased to be with someone who knew the area so well as the weather was very claggy, and I was almost cold with all my clothes on. Summer indeed?
Lunch was at the pass before an ascent the second and then third summit. As we ascended the final Munro the clouds lifted and it was one of the moments that I climb mountains for; clarity in all directions and an incredible view of what we had just climbed! There was a strong feeling of achievement as we looked back across to the first Munro and I was secretly pleased that I hadn’t seen the steep ascent before we did it.
We bounded down the last grassy slope having to be careful that we didn’t twist an ankle in the long grass, enjoying the beautiful flowers in the sunshine. Back to the loch and then the easy 5km on the gravel estate track to the cars and heading for the hostel 15 minutes away and a welcome cup of tea. There was a good sense of satisfaction at the end of 3 fun days on the hill, and I was glad to be spending the evening at the hostel rather than travelling too far after a big day oot! (As the Scots would say) One last evening chatting with the path layers before heading home and planning the next adventure.
Thank you to Nicola and Gavin, owners of Aite Cruinnichidh (which translates as the meeting place), for an enjoyable stay.